Bronze - the thinking man's gold

Bronze - the thinking man's gold

Hans-Henrik Enoksen

Most watch manufacturers spend considerable time making sure their watches continue to look exactly as they did when they left the factory.

Bronze does the opposite.

From the moment you begin wearing a bronze watch, it starts to change. Slowly at first. Then, almost without you noticing, the bright golden surface begins to darken. Browns, greys and occasionally hints of green emerge as the case develops a patina unlike any other material used in watchmaking.

Some people absolutely love it.

Others can't stand it.

We have always found it fascinating.

Not because bronze is rare. Not because it is expensive. But because every bronze watch eventually becomes a little bit different from every other one.

The formidable Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo


5,000 years in the making
 
Bronze is one of mankind's oldest manufactured materials.

Around five thousand years ago, humans discovered that combining copper with other elements created an alloy considerably stronger and more useful than copper alone. Early bronze often contained arsenic before tin became the more common ingredient, giving us the material that would define the Bronze Age.

For centuries bronze was used to make weapons, tools, vessels, jewellery and works of art. It was durable, workable and represented one of the great technological leaps in human history.

Eventually iron and later steel became the dominant materials because they were more abundant and better suited to many large-scale applications.

Yet bronze never disappeared.

Instead, it found places where its unique qualities made it remarkably difficult to replace.

Built to endure
The Romans recognised bronze as much more than a material for tools and weapons. They used it extensively in architecture, particularly for decorative and ceremonial doors. Throughout Europe, magnificent bronze doors dating back hundreds of years remain in daily use today—a remarkable testament to the durability of the material

Over time bronze became associated with objects intended to last.

Sculptures. Monuments. Medals. Architectural details. Works of art.

The extraordinary patinated bronze doors of the Sagrada Família’s Passion Façade in Barcelona, created by Josep Maria Subirachs.

There is something rather poetic about that because bronze doesn't remain untouched by time. It embraces it. The very surface changes that make bronze look older are also part of what protects the material beneath.

And nowhere has that proved more valuable than at sea.

From architecture to the oceans
One industry that has relied heavily on bronze alloys for generations is shipbuilding.

Made by the German company Mecklenburger Metallguss GmbH (MMG), the bronze propeller has a diameter of 31.5 feet (9.6 meters) and weighs over 130 tons. Because of its massive size, it required two weeks to cool after casting. After that, it took another three weeks of milling before it was ready for delivery and installation.

Marine engineers value bronze for its exceptional performance in seawater, where specialised bronze alloys are used in everything from bearings and valves to pumps and, perhaps most famously, ship propellers.

One extraordinary example belonged to the Danish container ship *Emma Mærsk*.

Its enormous propeller was manufactured in Germany by Mecklenburger Metallguss and measured approximately 9.6 metres in diameter while weighing more than 130 tonnes. After casting, it took weeks simply to cool before extensive machining could begin.

We would say *let that sink in*, but it seemed rather crass.

The interesting point isn't really its size.

It's that a material first developed thousands of years ago remains entirely relevant to some of the most sophisticated marine engineering in the world.

Which makes its eventual arrival in watchmaking seem rather fitting.

Bronze meets the diver's watch
For most of modern watchmaking, stainless steel has been the obvious choice for watches designed to live around water.

The Deep Dive E01/G - our first bronze diver's watch with a 100ATM rating


It is strong and corrosion resistant.

It is relatively easy to machine.

And perhaps most importantly, it tends to look much the same for decades if treated reasonably well.

Bronze offers a completely different experience.

Certain bronze alloys are exceptionally well suited to marine environments, making them an intriguing material for diver's watches. But corrosion resistance alone isn't why enthusiasts have fallen in love with bronze.

The real attraction is something much more visual.

Patina.

The beauty of patina
Bronze reacts with its surroundings.

Rather than flaking away like rust on ordinary steel, bronze develops a stable oxide layer on its surface. That layer gradually changes colour and appearance as the years pass, creating what we know as patina.

No two watches develop it in quite the same way.

A bronze watch worn every day by someone living near the sea may age completely differently from an identical watch worn occasionally in central Europe. Humidity, salt air, moisture, storage, handling and even the chemistry of the person wearing the watch all contribute to the final appearance.

It is impossible to predict precisely what a bronze watch will become.

And that's exactly the point.

No two ever come back the same
One of the most fascinating observations we've made over the years came not while selling bronze watches, but while servicing them.

Whenever one of our earlier bronze models returns for a scheduled service, we're always struck by how different they look.

Some have developed an extraordinary deep chocolate-brown patina with darkened bezels, crowns and case sides. They look unmistakably like watches that have travelled, worked and lived.

Others look remarkably close to the day we delivered them.

Sometimes you could place two watches beside one another. Both manufactured on the same production day—and struggle to believe they were ever identical.

That's something stainless steel rarely offers.

Steel records scratches.

Bronze records life.

The longer you own it, the more personal it becomes.

A watch you have to let go
There is a curious contradiction involved in owning a bronze watch.

Most of us instinctively protect valuable things. We polish them. Clean them. Try to keep them looking new.

Bronze asks you to do almost the opposite.

You have to allow it to become itself.

If your idea of the perfect watch is one that looks factory fresh after five years, bronze probably isn't the material for you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with that.

But if you enjoy the thought that your watch will gradually acquire character through everyday life, that it becomes uniquely yours simply by being worn, there are very few materials capable of telling that story quite as beautifully as bronze.

It isn't necessarily better than stainless steel. It is simply more personal. And we've always had a soft spot for it.

And then we found five
There isn't currently a bronze watch in the ENOKSEN collection.

In fact, we had no plans to make another one.

The original Fly E03/F in solid bronze. There will be 5 more made

 

But while going through our remaining components recently, we discovered something rather unexpected.

We still have enough original parts to build five bronze ENOKSEN watches.

Five.

That's all.

We haven't assembled them yet, and rather than quietly building them and placing them on the website, we'd like to ask a simple question first.

Would five people genuinely like us to make them?

This isn't a limited edition designed to manufacture scarcity.

We aren't making five because five sounds exclusive. We're able to make five because five is all we have left.

Once those components are gone, there won't be another batch.

So if the idea of owning one of the final ENOKSEN bronze watches appeals to you, simply register your interest below in the comments field or drop us a line at enoksen@byenoksen.com.

There is no deposit.

There is no obligation.

We'd simply like to know whether five bronze watches should be given one final chance to begin their own stories.

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1 comment

I love my 3 year old Stainless Steel Enoksen 39 Fly which I had the pleasure of choosing in person from Hans Enoksen in Belfast. It’s a really rugged, no-nonsense Field Watch with not a single superfluous detail and it’s ageing beautifully as I wear it whilst sea-swimming, motorcycling in Europe, and hill walking in all weathers. I squeezed on a 22mm brown silicone dive strap (using the original 20 mm strap bars )which gives it just a tad more ’body .. perfect for such a capable a tool watch.

So in Bronze? Yup, that will work. A couple of years of hard exposure to life and weather and salt water will give the bronze a really unique patina. It will look great on a quality leather strap..I’d go for black to match the face.. but again because it is watersports-ready I’d probably go for silicone on a bronze Fly too. Probably black silicone

My 39 Stainless Steel is a ‘keeper’ and I bet the 39 bronze will become heirlooms too.

Go for it Hans!

Stewarty Douglas

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